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Chalet Altesse

Zermatt: High Peaks and higher calories

Zermatt has some of the best pistes in Switzerland and its culinary range is equally impressive, writes Francisca Kellett.

In Zum See village, a short ski down from the Furi gondola

This is the pick of the bunch, with a gorgeous setting and superb food. Groups crowd in along long tables, either in the cosy interior (mind your head on the accordions) or on the sun terrace.

The menu has much to offer apart from Alpine fare: starters include a home-made duck liver terrine, served with toasted brioche, or paper-thin tuna carpaccio. The excellent calves' liver comes with rösti, and a meltingly tender lamb is served with potato gratin.

Stake your claim on the delicious mille-feuille as soon as you arrive because it sells out every day. The wine list is immense: the Heida wines (from the world's highest vineyards) are recommended. Groups should book at least a week in advance. £44. After lunch, strap on your skis and slide down to the tiny, fuggy pub at Blatten, two minutes away, for a Vodka Feige – a shot of vodka with a fig floating in the glass, topped with whipped cream.